110-111
145
NORTH-EASTRIDGE (Monch)
AD G Foster with H Baumann snr and jnr and F Teutschmann,
69
More entertaining than the ordinary, SE ridge route and quite accessible
From the Monchjoch hut.Delicate in places.
From the Monchjoch
hut follow Route 124 to the
foot of the ridge. Climb the snow and rock crest to the bergschrund
which is usually crossed on the L on the NE flank. Back on the
ridge climb two steeper rock sections (or avoid them on the L) to the
final steep snow crest (cornices) leading to the summit. 4-5 hr
146 NORTH-EAST
FACE (Monch)
D+ G Hasler
and C Jossi snr,
A short but quite steep (300m, 550-606) snow/ice climb. A good
introduction to N face ice routes.
From the M6nchioch or Berglihuts follow Route 124 towards the S
Eigerioch. From Pt 3687m cross to the centre of the face and take a
line direct to the summit. 3-5hr
147 SOUTH-EASTRIDGE
(Monch)
PD R Macdonald with C Almer and M Anderegg,
67 This constitutes the ordinary route and is a very short climb from the
Monchjoch hut. Delicate in places but of no real difficulty.
From the Monchjoch hut cross snow slopes SW to the foot of the S
branch of the ridge. Climb the ridge in its entirety on snow and
rock. The last section is almost horizontal and corniced. Keep on
the S side. 2-3hr
148 SOUTH
FACE (Monch)
D D von Bethmann-Hollweg
with O and O Supersaxo,
67 Mainly a snow climb but with some delicate rock in dry years.
Difficulties can usually be avoided by choice of line. Because of the S
facing aspect it is as well to complete the face early in the day.
Reach the centre of the face from the Monchjoch hut. Climb up to
the R of the low s6rac band and reach an inclined glacier terrace.
Climb as direct as possible to the summit. 3-5hr
First traverse: H George, J Hardy, H Morgan, L Stephen, A Moore
and R Liveing with C Almer, C and P Michel, U Kaufmann,
C Bohren, P Baumann
and P Rubi,
Situated between the Monch
and
when one really means the Sphinx (3569m) which is the rocky point
on the ridge just to the E and the point of exit from the Jungfraujoch
railway. It is of no great value as a route of access to the
Jungfraufirn, since the N side is protected by a long sierac band.
The S side is very easy.
D From the Guggihut follow Route 152 to the upper snow plateau of
the Chielouwenen glacier (3-4hr). Now climb up to the R of the
sierac band (550) and traverse L above it to the col.
3-4 hr, up to 8hr in all
110-111