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A much frequented mountain with short routes on the S and E sides
and some very fine long and difficult climbs on its N side. This side
has a reputation for loose rock but it is really no worse than on other
mountains in the vicinity. It is probable that the routes are safer
than on the Fiescherwand which has the additional danger of ice
avalanches. There are climbs on the W face but nothing of any real
interest.
139 SOUTH-WEST
RIDGE
AD F Wethered with C Almer and C
Roth,
67 The SW ridge rises from the E side of the Sphinx by the Jungfraujoch.
Half the route is rock, the rest is snow. A good climb and worth
combining with the SE ridge as a traverse.
From the Jungfraujoch station exit onto the Jungfraufirn or from
the Monchjoch hut get onto the ridge, about level with the
prominent sierac barrier low on the S face, using a slabby couloir just
L of an inclined gendarme. Turn a rock tower on the L and reach
the foot of a 10mhigh slab. (If there is a lot of snow it may be
possible to climb direct to this point from the Jungfraufirn.) Climb
the slab by its R edge (III, 1 piton) then keep more or less to the
ridge to where it steepens. Climb direct (rock and snow) until the
angle eases then follow the easy snow ridge to the summit. 3-4hr
In descent it is possible (given good enough snow conditions)
to descend a steep but easy snow couloir from the top of the highest
step on the ridge to join the S face route on the glacier terrace.
140 NORTH-WEST
BUTTRESS -
AD E von Fellenberg with P Egger
and C Michel,
69 A fine long climb (mostly PD) whose difficulty depends on the state of
the ice-boss (Nollen). This varies in steepness, may or may not have steps
cut in it, and the condition of the ice is variable.
From the Guggi hut traverse L wards before climbing the scooped
face up well-stepped rock and snow to the Monchplateau (3112m).
Now keep to the crest of the ridge to the Nollen. This is climbed
direct or in a corner on the L in about 1V2 pitches (550-60o, may
even be vertical for a few m. It has taken up to 5hr to climb). From
the top of the Nollen cross a small plateau and climb, obliquely R,
the snow/ice slope as far as the upper rocks on the R. Climb these
easily to the junction with the SW ridge then easily to the summit.
6-10 hr
141 NORTH-WEST
FACE -
TD+ D Haston and O Eistrup, Sept 1976
69 The route takes the ice couloir between the Nollen and the NW face.
From the Guggi hut follow Route 144 to the foot of the face. Climb
the couloir and the upper snow slopes on the W face to the summit.
If the lower part of the couloir has insufficient ice use the rocks on
the R (W) of the couloir, climbing diagonally from R to L in three
pitches to get into the couloir. 7-10hr
142 NORTH-WEST
FACE - 1934 ROUTE
ED1 Frau Hutton-Rudolph with A
Rubi and P Infibnit,
69 In the lower limestone part of the face there is grade V climbing and on
the upper granite parts grade III. Allow about 12hr
ED2 D Renshaw and D Wilkinson, 23-26 Dec 1976
69 The quality ofthe climbing on this route was found to be excellent, but
with poor belays and steep ice on the lower section. Stone fall makes it
inadvisable as a summer climb, but in winter, spring or autumn objective
dangers are much reduced. The climb generally follows the angle formed
between the N face rib and the face itself.
144
TD H Lauper and M Liniger,
69 An excellent mixed route which is more-or-less free of objective danger.
The climb was originally done from the Eigergletscher and the rib was
followed in its entirely. It is more common now to start at the Guggi hut
because of the state of the approach glacier on the original line. It was
climbed in winter in 1963.
From the Guggihut follow Route 140 to the Monchplateau and then
make a steep descent E to the glacier coombe below the NW face.
Cross the coombe almost horizontally to a snow slope that splits the
NE rib. Climb the snow slope to its upper edge and slant up R to get
onto the upper of three snow covered ledges crossing the rock wall.
Follow the ledge to its W end and reach a vertical crack.
Climb this (often verglassed) to its top (V-) and then move R behind
a detached block. Now either traverse L to a second crack and climb
this with difficulty (V) or use aid to climb the roof above the block.
It is also possible to move down R before climbing mixed ground
back L wards to above these difficulties.
Climb the ice slope for 300m (rock in a warm summer) to a
rock rib, leading up L. Climb it (II, III) to get back onto the NE rib
itself. Climb the steep snow crest to its top and junction with the
NE ridge. 10-12hr
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