106-107
136 NORTH-EAST
(MITTELLEGI) RIDGE
D M von Kuffner with J Beiner, A Burgener and A Kalbermatten,
66
F Steuri,
A superb, exposed route adorned with about 200m of fixed rope
(sometimes frozen in or ice covered) and with an excellent snow crest to
finish. The climb is much harder if the rope is not used. The first ascent
party made use ofa5m pole. The only disappointment is the shortness of
the climb. See also photo 62
From the Mittellegihut go along the ridge for a few minutes to a
short but delicate descent down a rocky nose into a gap and the first
fixed rope. Follow the crest to the first big step which is climbed on
the N side by the longest of the ropes. After two more steps (and
ropes) the ridge eases. The final ridge is followed, often on the rocks
on the S side (beware of any cornices), to the summit. 4-5hr
137 SOUTH-EAST
FACE - 1937 ROUTE
TD O Eidenschink,
62 1937.
Winter: K Haas,
21-23 Dec 1972
Most of the climbing is IV and V but is rather spoiled by being subject
to stone fall.
From the Eismeer station go out onto the glacier. Turn N and climb
to the highest part of the first glacier bay, close to the foot of a
couloir in the summit fall-line. About 25m R of the couloir climb a
big crack going up R wards for 4-5 pitches (II-III) to a steepening in
the wall. Climb another 40min the same crack (IV) to where it is
possible to traverse R under some overhangs for about 40m.
Get into a chimney and climb this steeply to gain access to a
major gully line (probably snow/ice in the gully bed). Climb a few
pitches up the gully then exit to the R by a narrow crack (IV). Move
up L wards (V) then R and L again with difficulty (IV and V) to a
good stance in the same gully. Two pitches R wards now lead to a
scree covered shoulder (IV, V-). From the R edge of the shoulder
climb a crack L wards to a steep gully (IV). Climb this, with two
vertical steps (V-), to a scree filled hollow. Steep broken ground up
L wards leads round an edge on the L. Continue, still towards, up
good rock for 40m (V-) to a stance. Climb a fine crack for 20m to
easier ground. Two pitches up this lead to a deep gully which
becomes a chimney (III). Follow this to the Mittellegi ridge.
10-12hr
138 SOUTH-EAST
FACE - 1974 ROUTE
TD+ K Moser and W Miller,
62 More direct than the 1937 route and mainly on good rock. It is best
climbed in snow-free conditions, otherwise it is too wet.
Start as for the 1937 Route. 50m up the crack traverse L onto slabs
above a small overhang. Climb the slabs for two pitches (IV) to a
belay near the central watercourse where the slabs steepen. Move
slightly R by a short crack which merges into smooth slabs, then
climb these slabs (V-) for one more pitch straight up to the top of a
small pillar. An awkward crack now leads diagonally R (piton) onto
a sloping ledge under a yellow overhang. Climb this at its weakest
point and gain a second ledge by a wet slab (can be avoided on the
R). Climb just R of a 5m high waterfa11then under it into a large
R ward leaning diedre (piton). Climb this for 15m (V+) to a belay at
the start of the middle zone of slabs.
Climb the slabs direct using cracks. A smooth section at the
start can be turned on the L. A second steep section is cut by a deep
crack. Where this becomes overhanging move L into a second crack
and climb it (IV+) to a ledge. Move R on this to a gap on the edge of
the pillar. Climb straight up for a few m, then traverse R on a
narrow ledge (piton) until cracks on a broken ramp on the L lead
onto the top of this second steep section of the climb. Easier
climbing leads to the fore-summit on the Mittellegi ridge. 10hr
106-107